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In August, thoughts turn to the grape harvest and the nervous last few weeks, when unseasonal rains could wreak havoc on the vintage. While there are vineyards near Banja Luka and elsewhere, it is the vineyards of Herzegovina that are the most renowned. 

Josip Brkić, from Čitluk, is one of BiH’s most renowned winemakers and the first to implement biodynamic principles. His approach is grounded in minimal intervention and utmost respect for nature. He is also committed to nurturing two of the country’s signature native varieties, Žilavka and Blatina. One of his most famous creations is Mjesečar (meaning ‘Moonwalker’), Žilavka aged ‘sur lie’ (on its lees) in new oak barrels from BiH. 

‘Viticulture and winemaking are like no other economic activity related to Herzegovina,’ Josip says, ‘wine is woven into the genes of these people.’ The tradition is ancient, with evidence of continuous production for over 2,000 years, dating back to Roman times. Herzegovinian wines were once so esteemed that they were served at the Austro-Hungarian imperial court in Vienna. During Yugoslav times, Žilavka and Blatina were the most exported. 

The most compelling anecdote, however, involves legendary artist Pablo Picasso. ‘After he made a poster for the most expensive film in the former Yugoslavia, the ‘Battle of the Neretva,’ he did not want to be paid in money but demanded that several packages of Blatina from Herzegovina be sent to Paris,’ Josip says. It is inspiration in liquid form. 

Despite this storied past, winemakers in BiH face significant challenges. ‘There is always very little money from the state for agriculture,’ Josip says, a lack of investment that makes it ‘impossible to maintain a similar level in production and technology with neighbouring countries that invest much more in viticulture.’ This is compounded by problems ‘with purchasing power because generally poor people live in BiH.’

I previously wrote about Josip for Wine Spectator, in a piece entitled ‘Wine After War in BiH,’ which captures some of the torment Josip and his family have had to endure: 

When Bosnia and Herzegovina was part of socialist Yugoslavia, wine production was centralized. In 1979, Josip's father, Paško, established one of the country's first private vineyards on Čitluk's rolling plains. At that time, only state-owned companies were permitted to market their wine; private producers could only sell in clear, unmarked bottles, without their own brand.

After Paško's death in 1989, Josip took the reins, becoming one of the country's youngest winemakers. Only three years later, however, Bosnia and Herzegovina descended into violence. As fighting encroached, Brkić and his family lived with fear, uncertainty and shortages.

‘War in Herzegovina was quite brutal,’ said Brkić. ‘I spent the entire war as a soldier, whilst at the same time working in the vineyards. I managed to save the vineyards, although some were directly affected by the shelling.’

With few signs of a cessation of hostilities, Brkić released his first wine bottled under his own label in 1994. Getting his wines to the capital, Sarajevo, which was under constant siege by Serb forces, required dangerous journeys over Mt. Igman. The narrow, winding road over the mountain was the only way into the besieged city. Three American diplomats in a French armored vehicle tragically died on the same road in 1995. As Brkić cautioned, ‘it is very difficult to explain to someone who has not lived here.’

The perception of Herzegovinian wine is changing for the better. Josip notes how ‘our wines have been highly appreciated outside the country’ and that ‘a lot of foreigners visit BiH and they can see for themselves how well-preserved nature is and what our wines are like.’ This growing interest in tourism makes him optimistic, as ‘we winemakers have great opportunities to promote and sell our wines.’

Josip speaks positively about the benefits of strong ties with neighbouring Croatia. ‘These connections are natural because they have been maintained and improved for centuries,’ he says, adding that many Croats from Herzegovina hold Croatian citizenship, which provides them with various advantages. 

Josip, however, is pessimistic about the country’s prospects more broadly, primarily due to ongoing political issues and a lack of EU membership. ‘BiH is in a political impasse from which there is no way out without a new agreement,’ he unequivocally states, ‘all three peoples fear being exploited by others.’ ‘The political situation has not changed since the end of the war,’ he adds, arguing that elites provoke tensions to stay in power. 

The fact that ‘there has been no war’ is, of course, a positive, plus the fact that ‘the best people in Europe still live in BiH.’ 

It is time to raise a glass to Josip and all BiH’s winemakers! Živjeli!

Ian is a writer based in the Balkans. He is the author of 'Dragon's Teeth - Tales from North Kosovo' and 'Luka'. Follow Ian on Twitter @bancroftian.

Currently in: Belgrade, Serbia —  @bancroftian